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Game Rules
 
     
 


Solitaire

Carrom

Dominoes

Draughts

Shove Ha'penny

Chess


Bagatelle

Cribbage

Pass the Pigs

Canasta

Backgammon

MahJong

   

Solitaire

Said to have been invented by a French aristocrat to help him pass the time while he was imprisoned in solitary confinement in the Bastille. Played by only one person, Solitaire is a fast-paced game that tests your ability to plot the strategy of each successive move.

In the most popular version of Solitaire, the pieces are arranged so that the centre hole is vacant. The objective is to clear the board of all but one of the pieces by jumping, horizontally or vertically, over an adjacent piece and removing it from the board. Even though Solitaire is easy to learn, it presents you with an ongoing challenge to master and has become an especially popular board game in recent years.

HOW TO PLAY SOLITAIRE.
NUMBER OF PLAYERS.-One
.
To remove as many pieces as you can from the playing board. The real challenge of Solitaire is to be able to remove all but one piece from the board. A playing board with 33 holes and 32 playing pieces. To BEGIN PLAY.-Place a piece over each of the holes in the board, except for the centre hole, which is marked with a star.

PLAY
Each piece can be moved by jumping backward, forward, or sideways, but not diagonally. When a piece is jumped over by another, it is removed from the board. If the game is played correctly, it should end with the last piece left in the centre hole marked with the star.

THE CROSS
A variation of Solitaire in which nine pieces are used.
The object of the game is to remove eight of the nine pieces from the board, leaving only one piece left in the centre.
You can devise your own versions of Solitaire by setting up new patterns of pieces and attempting to play the game so that only one piece remains at the centre of the board.

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Carrom

Two, three or four people can play the game which involves 'flicking' a 'striker' in order to sink all your 'men' in the corner pockets.
The game starts with nine white counters (known as men or pieces), nine black, one red (the queen) and a bigger and heavier 'striker'.
If you sink one of your men then play stays with you and you take another go. Play moves on if you miss or commit a penalty.
Penalties can be for sinking another player's counter, pocketing the striker or if a striker or a counter bounces off the board. If you commit a penalty then one of your previously pocketed men will be returned to the board inside the centre circle.
The winner of the game is the player that sinks all his or her men first. If the queen is still on the table then this must be pocketed before your last piece

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Dominoes

Dominoes are rectangular tiles marked with all possible combinations of numbers that can be rolled with two dice.

There are twenty-one different combinations. But the number zero is always added to the set, by way of "blanks," adding seven more bones, as the pieces are called. The widely used domino set contains twenty-eight pieces, the "heaviest" of which is 6-6. Sets are also made that run up to 12-12, containing ninety-one bones, but they are little used.

The bones whose two ends are alike are called doublets. Each doublet belongs to one suit alone, while every other bone belongs to two suits. In the set up to 6-6, there are seven bones in each suit, but eight ends of any one number.
As between two bones, one is heavier than the other if it has more dots, the other being lighter.

To begin any game, the bones are placed face down on the table and are shuffled by being moved about at random. Care must be taken not to face any domino in so doing. Each player draws a number of bones at random from this common pile, to form his hand. Dominoes are made thick and heavy enough to stand on edge on the table.

For the first play, a bone is laid face up on the table. All subsequent bones played must be matched with those already down, usually by like numbers on one end of the bone played and an open end of the layout. For example, if the first played is the 6-5, the next must have a 6 or a 5 at one end and be placed against the other with like ends touching. An open end of the layout is one on which it is legal to play. The number of open ends varies with the particular game and also with the circumstances. Usually these ends are self- being in fact the ends of various branches, but sometimes new branches may sprout from the sides of old.
One object of a Domino game is invariably to get rid of all the bones in the hand. There may also be scoring in the course of play. The games are of two kinds according to the rule governing the play when a player has no playable bone. In the block game, he loses his turn. In the draw games, he draws bones from the common stock, called the boneyard, until he gets one that he can play.

THE BLOCK GAME
The block game is the simplest of all Domino games. Two, three or four may play. With two, each player draws seven bones for his hand. With three or four, each takes five bones.

The player holding the highest doublet sets it-lays it down as the first play. The turn to play then rotates to his left.

Each play is made by adding a bone to an open end of the layout, with like numbers touching. The layout always has two open ends. The two branches are built off the sides of the set, and all doublets are customarily placed crosswise, but this does not affect the number of open ends.

If a player cannot play in turn, he passes. The game ends when a player gets rid of his hand or when no player is able to add to the layout. The one with the lightest remaining hand (which may be no bones at all) wins the total of pips on all bones remaining in the other hands. The amount needed to win a game may be fixed by agreement, as 100 in three-hand play.

All that a Player can do to control his destiny in this simple block game is to try to keep the largest assortment of different numbers in his hand as long as possible. For example, if a player has choice of playing the 5 - 4 or 5 -3 on an open 5, he should choose according as he has other 4s or 3s in his hand.

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Draughts

The Standard Board
1. The Standard Board must be not less than fourteen & 1 half inches, nor more than sixteen inches square, & divided into 64 squares of equal size, alternately coloured light and dark (technically Black & White).
2. The Board shall be placed so that the bottom square on each player's left shall be black.

The Standard Men
3. The Standard men, technically described as Black & White, must be light and dark (say red and white, or black & white), turned, and round, not less than one & one-eight inches, nor more than one and one-quarter inches in diameter.

Placing the Men
4. The men shall be placed on the Black squares.
5. The Black men shall invariably be placed upon the first twelve squares of the board; the White upon the last twelve squares.

Order of Play
6. Each player shall play alternately with Black and White men, and lots shall be cast for the colour only once - at the commencement of a match - the winner to have the choice of taking Black or White.
7. The first move is made by the player having the Black men, after which the players move alternately.

Method of Play
8. The player whose turn it is to move proceeds by advancing one of his men diagonally forward to an adjacent vacant square. If, however, an opponent's piece occupies one of the adjacent squares, and there is a vacant square immediately behind it, that piece of the opponent's is subject to capture, and must be captured. The player does this by having his man leap over the opponent's piece and on to the vacant square
(or any further similar squares) and then captures the piece (or pieces) by removing it from the board. A player may not move a piece on to a square occupied by an opponent's piece which does not have a vacant square immediately behind it.
9. Captures are compulsory, but if there is a choice of captures, the player may choose that which best suits his purpose; he is not required to play the move which captures the greatest number of men. However, once he begins a capturing move he must continue until all the men available on the path chosen have been captured.
10. Uncrowned men may move or capture in a forward direction only.
11. A capturing play, as well as an ordinary one, is completed whenever the hand is withdrawn from the piece played, even though two or more pieces have been taken, and have still to be removed from the board.
12. When capturing, if a player removes one of his own pieces, he may not replace it; but his opponent may either play or insist on his replacing it.
Crowning the Men
13. When a man first reaches any of the squares on the opposite extreme line of the board, it becomes a King, and must immediately be crowned (by placing a man on top of it) by the opponent. Crowning a piece completes its move - it cannot then capture a piece that is en prise.
14. The King is empowered to move or capture backwards or forwards, as the limits of the board permit. ( The King, like any man, may not refuse to capture when the occasion arises.)
15. If the opponent neglects to crown a man that has reached the King row, and plays on, such play shall be put back until the man be crowned.

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Shove Ha’penny

In the game, players take turns to push coins up a board with horizontal lines across it.   The areas between each pair of horizontal lines are called a "beds" and the objective is to push the coins so that they land squarely in the beds without touching the horizontal lines.  To win, a player needs to get a coin in each bed 3 times which is no easy task for the beds furthest away from the front of the board.   If a player manages to score three coins in one bed in a single turn, he is said to have scored a "sergeant" and if all five coins should score in a single turn, it is a "sergeant major" or a "gold watch".
Shoving is most commonly done with the heel of the hand although other techniques include the palm; the side of the thumb or the tips of the fingers are all used.  A variety of substances can be used to make the board sufficiently slippery - French chalk, black lead; beer, paraffin and petrol are all used.  Each coin has one side smoothed down flat and in theory this should be the tails side of the coin since it is illegal to deface an image of the monarch in England. However, many leagues maintain a contrary view in respect of this and smooth away the head side instead. This mark of disrespect also serves to leave the date of the coin visible and an ideal set of coins would have the same date on each coin.

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Bagatelle

A Bagatelle table is very much like a billiards table, normally with a slate or Mahogany bed cloth covered with cushions and measuring 6 - 10 feet long and 2 - 3 feet wide. (Remember: 1 foot = 30.48 cm) A major difference from a billiard table is that one end is rounded instead of square; also instead of pockets around the edge, the primary focus is upon the nine holes sunk into the table at the semicircular end with one in the middle of the semicircle and the rest surrounding it evenly in a ring.
The central cup is numbered 9, with the others numbered 1 - 8 in what appears at first to be a semi-random order. However, the common pattern is, starting from the bottom and working clockwise, for example: 1, 4, 8, 3, 5, 2, 7 and then 6.
For those with a mathematical mind you may have noticed that the top three numbers, the bottom 3 numbers and the middle 3 numbers all sum to 15. (Interesting fact for you!)
Rather like a Pool table a number of different games can be played on a Bagatelle table with the players standing at the square end of the table and striking a single ball up the table with a tipped cue towards the holes at the other end.

How To Play :-
Victorian Bagatelle
The following rules where those that were played during the 1800s "according to Hoyle" so once you are sitting carefully have a read.
Bagatelle tables were typically around 8 x 2 feet and did not have pockets, the balls were supposed to be exactly the same diameter as the cups and were typically one black, four red and four white. The red and white balls were used separately for other games played on the same table; for Bagatelle, reds and whites were treated the same and the balls were propelled either by a cue or a mace which is a long stick with a flat pushing block on one end (to all of you that do not have a clue).
To begin the game the black ball is placed on the middle spot and each turn consists of one player playing all eight balls down the table towards the cups. The first ball must strike the black ball and if it doesn’t then the ball is removed from the table and the player tries again in the same way until the black ball is moved.
Balls must be played from the front spot until the black ball is struck and then the balls can be played from anywhere behind the front spot and it is not necessary to strike the black ball or any other ball. Any ball that returns more than half way down the table is removed for the remainder of the turn.
The aim of the game is to pot as many balls as possible in the cups, scoring points according to the value indicated in the cup. The black scores double points and so ideally will be deposited into the highest scoring cup in the middle thus scoring 18 points with the maximum score being 54 points.
The game is usually played to 120 points, if it is the first player who reaches the target first, then they must complete there turn and the second player must also complete a turn to ensure fairness. The player with the highest score wins once the second player has finished.



Northern Bagatelle
This game is played on a 'Northern Bagatelle table' and is funny enough most popular in and around Chester. This game is the direct ancestor of Bagatelle described above with eight white balls and one black ball.
To begin the game the black ball is placed on the middle spot with each turn being called a "stick" and consists of a player playing all eight balls down the table towards the cups.
If the black ball is on the table, then the cue ball must strike the black ball and it must strike it first before entering a cup or striking another ball. Once the black ball is potted, each cue ball must strike another white ball and if there are no un-potted balls on the table, then the cue ball must strike a cushion.
If not then no score is awarded for that strike and the cue ball is removed from the table for the remainder of the turn. If the black ball is up and the cue ball fails to hit it first, any balls that are knocked into a cup as a result of the stroke are also removed for the remainder of the turn.
Two teams of eight players with each player playing two sticks usually play bagatelle and the scores from both are added to the team score with the team with the highest score wins and the losers buy all the drinks.

Southern Bagatelle Equipment
Mostly known in Coventry and Bristol and is played upon tables that are usually larger at 10 x 3 feet and feature two side pockets about three quarters of the way up on either side. There are seven white balls and two red balls with the two reds beginning on spots situated on either side of the table just in front of the cups.
Play
To play the cue balls are placed on the spot at the front of the table and then played up the table towards the cups.
Before each stroke, the player must nominate the cup or pocket that he/she intends to aim at.
If a red ball is on the table, then the cue ball must strike a red ball and it must strike one before entering a cup or striking another ball. Once both red balls are potted, each cue ball must strike another white ball however, if there are no un-potted balls on the table, and then the cue ball must strike a cushion.
The forfeit for not following this regime is 5 points for the offending stroke with any balls potted during such a stroke are removed for the remainder of that turn. If a ball slides into a cup or pocket that was not nominated the score is forfeited to the opponent. Pockets count for 10 points and reds count double with the game being first to 121.

Parlour/Children’s Bagatelle
Yes children get play this game too, different manufacturers have come up with all manner of layouts and scoring possibilities for the game but in all cases, there are a set of steel balls usually 10 which are propelled, in turn, up the chute on the right and into the playing area.
A tiny cue is used to shoot the balls up the channel but modern varieties often feature a sprung plunger instead with the idea to land the balls in scoring areas delimited by nails set into the board. The scores are indicated within each scoring receptacle and if a ball falls to the bottom of the playing area, it does not score.
Players take turns to play the set of balls and the player with the highest score wins.

Mississippi
This game is slightly different, as it is played on a Bagatelle table without pockets but with a set of numbered arches that span the table across its width just in front of the circle of cups. The arches can vary but a typical arrangement would be 6-4-1-7-8-2-5-3 with these numbers giving the score as the balls pass through the arch. The game is played with nine balls of any colour and any number of players with the player who makes the highest score in 9 balls wins.

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Cribbage

Cribbage is basically a two player game, but can be played with 4 players as teams of 2 players each. E. S. Lowe (A Milton Bradley Company) Derby Cribbage board has three tracks and allows the play of 3 players.

TWO PLAYER GAME
The aim is to be the first to score 121 points by counting combinations of cards during "play," "hands," and "crib."
Cribbage requires a standard 52 card deck, with cards ranking from the King high to the Ace low.
The face cards have a value of 10, with the other cards tallied according to their number, down to the Ace which is one.

THE DEAL
In cutting for deal, the low card wins; and shuffles. After shuffling, the non-dealer cuts; the dealer unites the cards and deals one card at a time first to his opponent, then to himself alternately till each, has six cards. Each player studies his hand and then discards two of his six face down without his opponent seeing them. These four face down discards are placed together, forming an extra hand known as the ''CRIB." There are therefore three hands of four cards each for each deal. They are:
1. The opponent's hand
2. The dealer's hand
3. The Crib
The crib is counted by the dealer after each players hand has been played and counted.

STARTING THE GAME:
After discarding to the Crib the opponent cuts the pack and the dealer turns the top card of the lower packet face up on top of the whole pack. This card is called the "Start." It is not used in the play. It is counted with each hand and the crib after play is completed. If the "Start" is a Jack. the dealer pegs two holes on the board at once. and this must be done before the dealer plays his first card in order to be counted "Two for his heels."

PLAYING THE HANDS:
After cutting the "Start," the non-dealer plays any card from his hand, face up on the table, in front of himself, calling out the value of the card he plays.
The dealer then plays any card from his hand, face up on the table, in front of himself, calling out the sum of his opponent's card and the card he plays. The non-dealer then plays another card, calling out the sum of all cards that have been played and then the dealer plays in the same manner. Playing alternates until the sum of the cards played is 31 or until neither player can play without exceeding 31. Either player unable to play a card making the sum less than 31, says ''Go" and the other player must go on playing till he reaches 31 or until he cannot play a card making the sum less than 31. The player coming nearest 31 scores a "go" and may peg one hole on the board. If either player makes exactly 31 he pegs two holes on the board. After a "go" or after 31 has been reached, each player turns the cards he has played face down on the table in front of himself.
The player who has the next turn begins the play again and the play continues in the same manner till all of the cards (8) have been played. The "last card" played scores one point, but if the "last card" makes 31 two points only are pegged and there is no "last" in this case.

SCORING DURING PLAY:
NUMBERS REFER TO TABLE BELOW.
(1) If either player plays a card making the sum of the cards played exactly 15, he calls out "fifteen two" and pegs two holes on his side of the board.
(2) Either player pegs two for 31 or (3) one for "go" or "last card."
Two, three or four cards played in succession, forming pairs, triplets or fours, entitle the player of the card completing a pair, triplet, or four to score. (5) Peg two holes for a "pair" (6) six holes for "three of a kind" and (7) twelve holes for "four of a kind."
If either player plays a card completing a sequence of three. four or five, etc., he calls out (8)"run of three" or (9) "run of four" or (10) "a run of five," etc., and may peg three, four or five, etc., holes on the board. The numbers in parentheses indicate the corresponding combinations in the table of combinations and their values, on the chart below.
Sequences or "runs" need not be in numerical order. For example, 9-7-6-8 or 6-7-8-9 are runs of four." Ace is always low and is one in sequence with 2, but not in sequence with King. A-2-3 Yes. Q-K-A No.
If a break in sequence is filled up, without the intervention of a card not in order, the player completing the sequence pegs one for each card in the sequence. For example:
Dealer example
In playing the cards, each player tries to peg as many points as possible, by making the combinations indicated in the table of scoring combinations.

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Pass the Pigs

Aim to be the first player to score 100 points by rolling two pigs as dice.

PLAYING THE GAME
One player must keep score. This player is known as the 'swineherd."
Choose a player to go first. Play then continues to the left

ON YOUR TURN
Roll both pigs together onto a smooth surface and mentally note the score. Points are scored according to how the pigs land. (See Scoring )
After noting your points, you must now decide whether to stop rolling and score, or to keep rolling to try and add points to your score

STOP ROLLING
If you choose to stop rolling, add up the points that you have rolled so far on this turn and have the swineherd mark your score on the score pad. This ends your turn. Pass the pigs to the next player.

KEEP ROLLING
You may continue to roll the pigs again and again on your turn, each time mentally keeping a running total of the points rolled. You may keep rolling until one of the following occurs to end your turn:
o You decide to stop rolling and score.
o You roll a "Pig Out" which means you score 0 points for this turn. (See Scoring.)
o You roll an "Oinker" which means you lose all of your points accumulated in the game so far. (See Scoring.)
At the end of your turn, have the swineherd mark your score (if any) on the score pad Pass the pigs to the next player

SCORING
Points are scored according to how the pigs land. The greater the degree of difficulty, the higher the score.

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Canasta

For Two, Three or Five Player games, it is each player for themselves. For Four or Six player games, players must choose a partner. Partners sit opposite each other. Canasta uses a pack made of two complete decks of 52 cards plus four Jokers (108 cards total). All the deuces (twos) and jokers are wild cards.


Point values for cards in Canasta

Card

Value

3♦, 3♥

Special

3♣, 3♠, 4, 5, 6, 7

5

8, 9, 10, J, Q, K

10

A, 2

20

Joker

50

The initial dealer is chosen at random, and the deal then rotates clockwise after every hand. The dealer shuffles the pack, the player to the dealer's right cuts, and the dealer deals out 15 cards to each player.
The remaining cards are left in a stock in the center of the table. The top card from the stock is turned over to form the discard pile. If this first card is a red three or a wild card, the discard pile is frozen (explained in Picking up the discard pile, below). Additional cards from the stock are turned over to the top of the discard pile until the top card of the discard pile is neither a red three nor a wild card.
Any player who received a red three in their initial hand must immediately play it to the table for their team and draw a new card to their hand.

The Play

The player to the dealer's left has the first turn, and play then proceeds clockwise. A turn begins either by drawing the first card from the stock into the player's hand or by picking up the entire discard pile. However, there are restrictions on when you can pick up the discard pile. (See Picking up the discard pile, below.) If the card drawn from the stock is a red three, the player must play it immediately and draw another card.
The player may then make as many legal melds as they wish from the cards in their hand. A turn ends when the player discards one card from their hand to the top of the discard pile.

Melds and Canastas

Each team keeps separate melds of the various ranks of cards. A player may never play to an opponent's meld. A legal meld consists of at least three cards of the same rank. Suits are not considered except that black threes are treated differently than red threes. Wild cards can be used as any rank except for threes. Red threes may never be melded. Black threes may only be melded as a player's last meld before going out.
A meld must consist of at least two natural cards, and can never have more than three wild cards. Examples: 5-5-2 and 9-9-9-2-2-Joker are legal melds. 5-2-2 is not a legal meld as it contains only one natural card. 9-9-2-2-2-Joker is not legal as it contains more than three wild cards.
A canasta is a meld of at least seven cards, whether natural or wild. A natural canasta (or clean canasta or red canasta) is one which comprises only natural cards. In many regions, such a canasta is gathered into a single face-up pile and set aside, with a red card on top, thus the red canasta terminology. A mixed canasta (or dirty canasta or black canasta) is one which comprises both natural and wild cards. Again, it is common practice to set such a meld aside in a single face-up pile, with a natural black card on top (if possible - note that it is mathematically possible, though rare, to have a black canasta with no natural black cards). Natural canastas score more points than mixed canastas.

Initial melds

When a player's team has not yet made any melds in a hand, that player must meet an additional point score requirement to make their first meld(s). The sum of the values of the cards played in the player's turn must exceed the minimum initial meld requirement according to the team's total score:


Team score

Minimum initial meld

Less than 0

15

0 - 1499

50

1500 - 2999

90

3000 and above

120

Example: If a player's team had a score of 1600 and had not yet made any melds in a hand, an initial meld of 6-6-6, K-K-K-2 could not be made as it scores only 65 points and the requirement is 90. A meld of 6-6-6, A-A-A-2 would score 95 points and could be played. Note that both initial melds could be played if the team's total score were below 1500, and that neither could be played if the team's total score were 3000 or higher.

Picking up the discard pile

At the beginning of their turn, a player may pick up the entire discard pile instead of drawing a card from the stock. They may only pick up the discard pile if they can use the top card either in an existing meld or by making a new meld along with two other cards from their hand.
If a wild card has previously been discarded to the pile, the discard pile is frozen. When the discard pile is frozen, it may only be picked up if the player can meld the top card with two natural cards of the same rank in the player's hand.
If the player's team has not yet made any melds, the discard pile is frozen for that team. In addition, the player must meet the initial meld requirement using the top card of the discard pile in order to pick up the pile. Only the top card may be used in meeting the requirement before the player may pick up the rest of the discard pile.
If a wild card or a black three is on top of the discard pile, it may not be picked up.

Going out

A player may go out by using all the cards in their hand only if that player's team has made one or more canastas. The player may go out either by melding all cards in their hand or by melding all cards but one and discarding the final card. If the player's team has not yet made any canastas, the player may not make a play which would leave them with no cards in their hand at the end of their turn.
Black threes may be melded only as the last play before a player goes out, and wild cards may not be used in a meld of black threes. The hand ends immediately when a player goes out.
When considering going out, a player may ask their partner for permission to go out; however, the player must abide by the partner's answer. If the partner refuses permission, the player may not go out this turn. If the partner responds "yes", the player must go out this turn. Note that it is not necessary to ask permission before going out.
If the stock is completely depleted when a player is required to draw a card, the hand ends immediately with no player having gone out. This includes the case where a player is required to draw an additional card as a result of drawing a red three. The player may not meld any cards before the hand ends. If the player can legally pick up the discard pile when there are no cards remaining in the stock, they must do so.

The Scoring

At the end of each hand, the score for each team is calculated as follows:
The total value of all cards melded by that team, including cards in canastas minus the total value of all cards remaining in the team's hands plus any bonuses:


Bonus scores

Going out

100

Going out concealed

additional 100

Concealed canasta (see Miscellaneous Variants)

additional 100

Each mixed canasta

300

Each natural canasta

500

Each red three, up to three

100

The fourth red three

500 (total of 800 for all four red threes)

A player goes out concealed when the player makes their team's initial meld and goes out legally in the same turn.
The bonuses for red threes are subtracted from a team's score rather than added if the hand ends without that team having made any melds. That is, if a team has three red threes but has not made any melds at the end of a hand, the team will suffer a penalty of 300 points rather than gaining a 300 point bonus.
Scoring Example: At the end of a hand in which the North player has gone out (not concealed), the cards in each team's melds and in each player's hand are:


Melds

N-S

E-W

3♦ 3♦

3♥

3♣ 3♠ 3♠

4 4 2

6 6 6 6 6 6 2

7 7 7 7 7 2 Joker

9 9 9 9 9 9 9 9

10 10 Joker

10 10 10

A A A A A

J J J J 2 2 Joker

 

Hands

North

None

South

4 5 5 Q K A A

East

2 5 6 10 J J

West

4 4 10 Q Q K K

Hand scores

Description

N-S

E-W

Melds

305

295

Hands

-75

-120

Mixed Canastas

600

300

Natural Canastas

500

0

Red Threes

200

100

Going out

100

0

 

 

 

Total

1630

575

The game ends when a team's total score reaches 5000 or above. The team with the highest total score at this point wins.

Variations in Play

Canasta for Two or Three Players

Canasta can be played with less than four players with some variations in the rules. The most significant changes are in the number of cards dealt at the beginning of the hand and the fact that each person plays individually. In a game with three players, each player receives 13 cards, and in a two player game each player receives 15 cards and each player draws two cards on each of their turns and discards one. Alternatively each player can draw only one card.

Scoring Variations

  • Games can be extended beyond 5,000 points, with higher initial meld requirements after reaching certain point totals (e.g. 150 points or even an initial canasta).
  • The third red three can be made worth 200 points and the fourth worth 400 to create cumulative totals of 100, 200, 400, and 800.
  • A meld of all four black threes can be made worth 100 points, but the cards are not counted for 5 points each in the total count. Black threes can also be treated like red threes (but red and black threes are normally scored separately in this case). Black threes may or may not retain their ability to block the discard pile if this variant is used.
  • A black three left in a player's hand when another player goes out may incur a -100 point penalty (rather than -5).

Miscellaneous Variations

  • It is fairly common for a different number of cards than 15 to be dealt out at the beginning of the game, 11 and 13 also being common choices. Some groups vary the number of cards drawn inversely with the number of players.
  • To make picking up the discard pile more challenging, always require that a natural pair matching the top card be played on the same turn that the pile is picked up (i.e., the pile is always frozen).
  • A concealed canasta occurs when a canasta is revealed out of a players hand
  • Some players use a slight variant on the rule for melding wild cards; any given meld must always have more natural than wild cards. The two natural card minimum and the three wild card maximum follow from this, but this creates slightly more restrictions on the intermediate melds that can legally be made; for example, the 9-9-9-2-2-Joker meld discussed above would not be legal under this rule.
  • Require that two canastas be played in order to go out.
    • Variation on the above: Require one or both to be natural canastas.
    • Note on the above: In most cases this prevents a 'concealed hand' from being played, but it is still possible if a player picks up the discard pile and is able to use all or all but one of the cards and meld two canastas. Consider increasing the concealed canasta bonus to 250 or 500 points to reflect the increased difficulty of such a play.
  • When the stock is depleted, consider flipping over the discard pile and turning it into a new stock to extend play. If the stock and discard pile are both depleted, continue as if the stock were depleted under normal rules.
  • Play with a modified deck, such as six, two, or zero jokers, or only 7 of each meldable card.
  • For a faster-paced game that de-emphasizes the importance of picking up the discard pile, draw two cards rather than one each turn.
  • When dealing, if the dealer takes the correct amount of cards off the stock to complete the deal, and he has no cards in his hand after dealing the first card to start the discard pile, he scores a bonus of 100 points.
  • Require that all players with less than 1500 points meld 50, even with a negative score.

Samba and Bolivia

Samba is a Canasta variant involving three decks rather than two. In Samba, sequences (such as 4-5-6 or 10-J-Q) of matching suit may be melded as well as matching sets. A sequence of seven cards, known as a samba or escalara, is worth 1500 points and counts as a canasta for purposes of going out. Other important rule changes for this version include:

  • A canasta may only contain two wild cards at most rather than three (and a samba is generally not allowed to contain wild cards at all). One slight variant on this is to require that there always be at least twice as many natural cards as wild cards in a meld.
  • The two-canasta and draw-two-cards rules mentioned above are always used; moreover, one of the two canastas must be either a samba or a natural canasta. Some variants allow going out also with two mixed canastas.
  • The pile is always frozen. One common variant does not allow picking up the pile to add the top card to a sequence, only a group of matching rank; in this version, it is legal to take the top card to add to an already-melded sequence, but you do not take the rest of the discard pile if you do this. In some variants, the concepts of frozen and unfrozen pile exist, but one can pick up an unforzen pile only with a natural pair from the hand, or into an already existing meld.
  • Play is to 10000 rather than 5000. After 7000 points, the opening meld is 150.
  • Scoring for red 3s varies considerably. In one version, the fourth red three remains worth 500; fifth and sixth ones are worth 200 each. In another, red threes are worth 100 each unless all six are collected, in which case they are collectively worth 1000.
  • There also exists a rather complicated variant Sitoumussamba (Finnish for Contract Samba), which combines bridge-style bidding with Samba-style play. The declarer side has a contract of the minimum score they will achieve in the hand, and their opening requirements are somewhat relaxed. (Reference: Holmberg - Öhrling: Canasta, Samba ja Sitoumussamba (1962) Rules : [1] (Finnish))

Bolivia is similar to Samba, with the most important difference being that canastas formed entirely of wild cards are also legal; this combination, called a wild canasta or a Bolivia, is worth 2500. Sequence canastas (always called escalaras, never sambas) are sometimes valued at 1000 rather than 1500. Play is usually to 15000.

  • Common variants of Bolivia, sometimes named after other South American locations, involve varying the scoring for wild canastas according to their composition; one consisting entirely of 2s might be worth more than one with jokers in the mix, or a bonus might be given for having all six jokers in the same Bolivia.

Hand & Foot

Hand & Foot is a Canasta variant involving four to six decks rather than two and is played by teams of two players (usually two teams, but it also works with three or four teams). Some players feel this version is more enjoyable for beginners. Several other important rule changes for this version include:

  • Each player is dealt two hands of ten cards each, sometimes referred to as the "hand" and the "foot". The hand with the lowest bottom card is played first. Once a player plays all cards from his first hand he picks up the second and continues normal play. A team may not go out until each member has played one card from the second hand.
  • On each turn, players draw either two cards from the stock or the top card from the discard pile. Each player discards one card on each turn.
  • The two-canasta and draw-two-cards rules mentioned above are always used; moreover, each team must have at least one black and one red canasta to go out.
  • Only the top card from the discard pile may be picked up.
  • Black threes do not count any points and are thus useful only as discards. The same is true of red threes; in fact these are even worse. Red threes count 100 points each against you if you hold any in your hand (or foot) when a team goes out.

This version is only meant to be played by exactly four players, in two two-person partnerships. Important differences between this version and the "classic" version include:

Setup and play
  • 13 cards are dealt to each player, then two face down groups of cards are dealt on either side of the draw pile and discard pile, one with four cards and one with three. The latter are referred to as the talons or wings. The discard pile itself starts out empty. The wings are never revealed, scored or otherwise permitted to affect the game in any way; their purpose seems to be to make the game less predictable by creating some uncertainty about the composition of the deck.
  • The draw-two-cards rule is not used. Two canastas are required to go out. Play is to 8500.
  • Initial meld requirements are higher - 125 for teams with less than 3000 points, 155 for teams with 3000 or more but less than 5000, 180 thereafter. Moreover, somewhere in your initial meld must be a matching set of three natural cards, though you are allowed to have wild cards in this meld in addition to the natural cards.
    • Melding a complete canasta, however, is always considered to meet the initial meld requirement, regardless of the point values of the cards involved. (There is no other bonus for such a play.)
  • The discard pile is always frozen. Many groups do not allow taking the pile and making your team's initial meld on the same turn; those that do allow this, require you to make the initial meld first, then take the pile. (The latter was the "official" tournament rule). This can be done on the strength of a pair of natural cards that were already melded that turn, or by producing such a pair from your hand after having met the initial meld requirement without it.
  • There are some limitations on legal discards. Threes can't be discarded, except as your final discard when going out; the same is true of wild cards. If the discard pile is empty, aces and sevens can't be discarded. It is possible (though very unlikely), however, to be in a situation where you have only wild cards, or only aces, sevens and wild cards with an empty discard pile. In this case you may make such a discard (aces or sevens if possible, wild cards only if there is no other choice - never a three under any circumstances). However, an opponent may challenge the legality of such a play, in which case you must show the opponent your hand to verify that the play was in fact legal.
  • Both red and black threes may be played to the table as red threes can in "classic" canasta. Unlike in other versions of canasta, this is optional. As in other versions, a player who plays a three draws a replacement card.
Melding rules
  • Melds that do not include sevens or aces work as in "classic" canasta, except that such melds can include at most two wild cards rather than three.
  • Melds of more than seven cards are strictly forbidden, as are duplicate melds of the same rank by the same team. This has a few strategic implications; for example, it is impossible to pick up the pile on the strength of a pair of (say) jacks in your hand if your team already has a meld of five jacks, natural or otherwise.
  • Sequences (such as those that define Samba, described above) are not legal melds and play no role in the normal play of American Canasta. The closest thing to a sequence that is normally allowed is one of the Special Hands, described below.
  • Melds of sevens cannot include wild cards. A canasta of sevens is worth 2500 points rather than the usual 500. However, if the hand ends without your team completing this canasta, your team loses 2500 points. Retaining three or more sevens in your hand is nearly as bad, carrying a penalty of 1500.
  • Aces are treated the same way as sevens, with one exception. If your team's initial meld includes aces, wild cards may be added at that time; if this is done, the aces are treated like any other meld rather than being treated in the special way sevens are. Otherwise, all the same rules, including the potential penalties, apply to aces as to sevens.
  • Melds consisting entirely of wild cards are legal, much like in the aforementioned Bolivia variant. A canasta consisting of wild cards is worth 3000 points if it consists entirely of twos, 2500 points if it contains all four jokers, or 2000 points for any other combination. However, failing to complete a canasta once such a meld is made carries a 2000 point penalty.
  • It is legal to meld certain special hands as your team's first and only meld. These are hands of exactly 14 cards which you can concievably have after drawing your card for the turn. If a team plays a special hand, the play ends immediately; the team scores only the points for the special hand (there are no penalties for the cards in the other partner's hand). This is also the only time a player is allowed to not discard a card; even when going out, a player must otherwise have something to discard. There is considerable variation in what special hands are allowed and how they are scored. Among the most commonly accepted special hands are the following (these are the ones that were legal in the tournament version):
    • Straight - one card of every rank, including a three (the reason you are allowed to retain threes in your hand), plus a joker. This is worth 3000.
    • Pairs - seven pairs, which either do not include wild cards (worth 2500), or include twos, sevens and aces (all three must be present - this combination is worth 2000).
    • Garbage - Two sets of four of a kind and two sets of three of a kind, which do not include any wild cards or threes. For example, 4-4-4-4-7-7-7-9-9-9-9-J-J-J would be considered a Garbage hand. This is worth 2000.
Other scoring rules
  • Yet another variation on scoring threes is used. Scoring is 100 for one three of a particular colour, 300 for two, 500 for three or 1000 for four; red threes and black threes are counted separately. This is a penalty if your team has no canastas at the end of the hand (and for this purpose threes in your hand count as though they were on the table), ignored entirely if your team has exactly one canasta, and a bonus if your team has two or more canastas.
  • If your team has no complete canastas when the play ends, any cards that have been melded count against that team, in addition to any of the above penalties that may apply. A team with at least one canasta gets positive points for these cards as usual.

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Backgammon

Each player must move his men according to the numbers shown on the throw of two dice. He moves his men from his opponent's inner table along the playing board, across to his outer table, and finally into his own inner table. The dark and light pieces move in opposite directions, as shown on diagram "B".

THE PLAY
The laws of backgammon say that each player throws one die in order to determine who goes first. If both players roll the same number they must throw again until one player has rolled the highest number. That player then goes first, using the numbers shown on the two dice-his own and his opponent's.
The players then throw in turn using their own dice. A player moves his men according to the numbers shown on the dice. Cocked dice means that one of the dice has not landed completely flat on the playing board. When this happens the player must throw again.
The numbers shown on the dice are considered individually and not in sum total. Thus, a player may move one man the whole throw as long as the points designated by EACH die are open, or he may move each of the two numbers with different men. A player MUST use both numbers of each roll whenever possible. If he can use only one number, he must, if possible, use the larger. If he cannot move at all play passes to his opponent.

DOUBLETS
Doublets merely means rolling doubles, the same number thrown on both dice. When this occurs you move the number shown on one die four times. You can move the same man all four moves, or any other combination of men you choose.

BLOCKED POINT
Any point on the playing board on which two or more men of the same player sit. The opposing player's men may not land on a blocked point, however they may move over the blocked point. Once a player has landed two men on any one point he is said to have "made the Point". There is no limit to the number of men one player may have on a point.

BLOT
Any point on which a player has only one man. Since men of opposite colors cannot occupy the same point, when an opponent lands on a blot he removes the man that was there and replaces it with his own. This is then called a "hit". The removed man is placed on the bar.

BAR
The bar is the middle strip that separates the inner and outer tables. Once one of your men has been placed on the bar you must throw the dice when your turn occurs and you must enter into your opponents inner table BEFORE you may move any of your other men. Entering is accomplished by moving the man on the bar to the point indicated on either one of the die thrown as long as that point is not blocked. If you cannot enter because both points indicated are blocked the turn then passes to your opponent. A SHUTOUT or CLOSED BOARD occurs when your opponents inner table is completely closed (each point is covered by at least two men).
BEARING OFF
Bearing Off means removing your men from the playing board by the roll of the dice. You cannot start bearing off until ALL 15 of your men are in your inner table. You may then either bear off men from points corresponding to die thrown or you may move your men within your inner table according to the numbers shown on the dice. You must use your entire roll, if possible. This means that if you roll a six, but have no men on your six point, you must take a man off the highest point which you do have men. The same rule applies if you roll doubles. However, you cannot bear off a man if the point indicated on the die is vacant and there are any men on a higher counting point. If while bearing off, a man in your inner table is "hit", that man goes to the bar and must reenter as described earlier. You cannot continue to bear off until you have managed to get this man who was "hit" back into your inner table.

DOUBLING
The doubling cube is used to double the betting stakes. Before the game begins the doubling cube is placed on the "bar", with the number 64 on top and not facing either player. If there is an automatic double the number 2 is placed face up, again not facing either player. If there is a second automatic double the number 4 is placed face up, and so on. Automatic doubling occurs on each tie in the opening throw. Voluntary doubling means that a player offers to double the stakes, when it is his turn to play and before he has thrown the dice. A double may be accepted or declined, but the player declining looses whatever the stakes were before the double was offered. Thereafter, doubling alternates between players.

SCORING
A game is won when either player bears off all of his men first. A gammon (double game) is won if your opponent has not born off any of his men. A backgammon, (triple game) is won if your opponent has not born off any of his men and has one or more men in the winner's inner table or on the bar.

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